Claire's Italian Feast: 165 Vegetarian Recipes from Nonna's Kitchen
Claire Criscuolo. Plume Books, $13.95 (224pp) ISBN 978-0-452-27881-3
When Criscuolo's grandmother came to America from Amalfi in Southern Italy, she brought a wealth of family recipes with her, which the author has prepared for her customers at Claire's Corner Copia restaurant in New Haven, Conn. It's a tribute to the variety of ingredients that one can read through dozens of dishes presented here before realizing that they are all meat-free. Making Italian-style vegetarian cooking alluring are appetizers such as White Bean and Mint Salad; pasta dishes like Linguine with Pumpkin Sauce; and entr es such as Potato and Onion Frittata, Spinach Risotto and Pizza Amalfitan (rectangular, with fresh tomatoes and Parmesan cheese). There are chapters on stocking the pantry, planning menus and concocting festive desserts, with many hints along the way on using meat substitutes, cooking dried beans and preparing unusual vegetables (cippoline, broccoli rabe and squash blossoms, for example). Despite some deep-frying, dishes are generally light and often as simple as pasta tossed with olive oil, garlic and capers. Family reminiscences lend warmth, supporting Criscuolo's assertion that in her household ""love was served on the platters."" (Oct.)
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Reviewed on: 09/28/1998
Genre: Nonfiction