Judith Olney on Bread

Olney, author of four previous cookbooks, including The Joy of Chocolate and Summer Food, can be counted on for sharp description and original recipes. In this volume she begins with a vivid account of the sensations of breadmakingthe feel of dough and the exertions of kneadingthen launches into a dazzling collection of 139 recipes. There are breads you thought only an expert French baker could shape (like the artichoke); woven multicolored breads; sourdough and salt-risen breads; loaves made of unusual grains (like popcorn bread and true Scottish oat cakes); muffins and biscuits; the world's largest hamburger bun; ""essence'' breads of Olney's invention that star, say, pear or red pepper and are accompanied by compound butters; sweet breads; exotic breads; and, when you think there's no more to be explored, bread dishes like gratin au pain and bread pate. Olney's methods aren't always orthodox, but they are wise and should guarantee a lifetime of well-made loaves. Illustrations not seen by PW. November