Dolci, the Fabulous Desserts of Italy

Although Italian-influenced dishes have become a generally accepted facet of American cookery, only the most determined chefs have heard of more than a handful of Italian sweets. In this extensive collection, the husband-and-wife food writers offer some familiar items, such as panettone, pizzelle and zuppa inglese. But the work is most interesting when it explores unusual creations. Cakes include pineapple marzipan, orange cake and whipped cream cake with meringue chips. Zuppette Napoleone, meringues with chocolate glaze and jam-filled three-cornered hats are among the pastry selections. Tarts and tartlets range from an array of simple fresh fruit fillings to spice-cake tartlets and ricotta cheese pie. Puddings and ice creams are well represented by such dishes as custard ladyfinger pudding and chocolate ice cream balls. Recipes vary in difficulty from whipped cream to puff pastry, so most dessert lovers should find recipes that are intriguing yet manageable. Illustrations not seen by PW. (August 13)