Blood and Wine: Unauthorized Story of the Gallo Wine Empire

Re-arguing a trademark infringement case already settled by the courts, Hawkes ( Feminism on Trial ) presents so much immaterial evidence that the book becomes tedious. At issue: the legality of California rancher Joseph Gallo to label his consumer cheese product with his full name, as he does on his bulk shipments. Filing their successful injunction suit in 1988 were his brothers, E. and J. Gallo Winery owners Ernest (b. 1909) and Julio (b. 1910). In a defeated counterclaim, the then 70-year-old Joseph sued for a third share of the wine company as inheritance from their parents' estate. Yet the youngest son, who had been raised by his brothers after their father murdered their mother and then committed suicide when Joseph was 13, had never been a partner in the firm and had left his brothers' employ in 1967. To show Ernest as an aggressive, sleazy commander-in-chief and Julio as biddable, Hawkes dredges up corporate history (inadvertently the most interesting aspect of the book) and family relationships (only Joseph is depicted as likable) through three generations. The case, which severed the elderly siblings' friendship, is poignant, but Hawkes's blatant advocacy journalism leaves the reader curious to hear the other side's story. Photos. First serial to the Los Angeles Times Magazine. (Mar.)