Cuisine a la Vapeur: The Art of Steam Cooking

Ten years after the French publication of legendary chef Maniere's (d. 1991) treatise on cooking with steam, Lyness, a teacher at Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, faithfully adapts that work for the American kitchen. Effectively proselytizing Maniere's belief that proper steaming of various foods concentrates and enhances natural flavors, she guides readers in everything from purchasing steamers to producing full meals; she also sets forth precise timing charts. Vegetable dishes include a number of surprises, including a memorable asparagus with soft-cooked eggs and lemon butter. Whole fish emerge moist after steaming, a process less taxing than poaching. The real news here is the effect of steaming meats and poultry: Lyness confesses to an early disappointment with steamed lamb, but subsequent research into American equivalents for the cuts Maniere specified have led to especially flavorful blanquettes of veal, beef terrines, etc. Thoughtfully explained, Maniere's startlingly simple philosophy may instigate major changes in American home cooking. HomeStyle Books alternate; author tour. (Apr.)