Puglia

Like others in the series (Tuscany, Sicily, etc), the latest edition from the editors of the Silver Spoon, often called Italy’s Joy of Cooking, gives readers a gorgeous travelogue combining artful photographs of the region with classic local dishes. Even if readers have never ventured into Puglia or its sister region, Basilica, both located in the “heel” of Italy’s boot, they’re sure to find a dish begging for a try in this well-crafted collection. Since the region is so close to the Adriatic and Ionian seas, dishes like baked squid and potatoes are natural choices and sure to spark appetites. The editors give readers a sense of place by including a number of dishes served around Christmas, such as zuppa di natale, a traditional soup of bread, turkey, and cheese; Christmas Eve pie, a savory pie incorporating salt cod, cauliflower, and escarole; and pasta di mandorle con faldacchiera, a cross between bread pudding and a bundt cake that incorporates a marsala-infused cream sauce with sponge cake, chopped almonds and pear jam. There’s also the impressive and labor-intensive Timballo, immortalized in the film Big Night. Readers will find a comfortable mix of familiar favorites as well as inventive riffs, such as rafanata, a simple potato gratin of sorts that incorporates a generous amount of fresh horseradish and can be served as a side dish. The majority of the book’s recipes are fairly simple to source and yield terrific results as long as home cooks use the best ingredients possible and follow the techniques to the letter. This is a warm invitation to the region and its breadth of cuisine. (Mar.)