Texas Cowboy Cooking

In case the title alone isn't enough to identify this meaty collection as a seriously macho undertaking, there is a foreword by Robert Duvall and a cameo hamburger recipe from Fess Parker, TV's own Davy Crockett. Perini, born and raised a gourmet, knows all there is to know about chuck-wagon cuisine, and his cooking is simplicity itself. Salt, pepper and a small handful of household herbs and spices carry the weight in several dry rubs concocted to coat a prime rib or beef brisket. Salt pork, garlic and a spoonful of chili powder are all the seasonings needed for a classic kettle of Ranch Beans. Similarly, his Fried Catfish and Chicken Fried Steak want nothing more exotic than an egg and some flour or pepper-seasoned cornmeal. And Perini loves his dairy just as much as his beef. He uses a touch of cream in his hamburger recipe (complementing the quarter-cup of strong coffee in his BBQ sauce) and creates a Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream that is one part horseradish to eight parts heavy cream. A good dose of ranching history and plenty of pictures of men on their steeds round out the adventure. (Apr.)