ROSEMARY AND BITTER ORANGES

Chen portrays a rose-colored dream of a childhood in Livorno, Italy. The live-in cook, Emilia, is the inspiration for most of Chen's love of cooking, and Chen lovingly portrays Emilia's stubbornness and oracular beliefs about cooking ("If I asked how long it took to simmer the meat sauce, Emilia would answer with a grumble and her usual lapidary phrase: 'Quanto basta. As long as it takes.' ") She recalls a childhood of outings to the market and to Emilia's home in nearby Vada, lavish Christmas dinners, orange and magnolia trees and herbs in a lush garden, feeding chickens and fetching milk from the local vendor, evenings of reading with her Nonna, and mid-day school treats of la torta di ceci (chickpea pancakes) and recipes for Emilia's fabulous, ubiquitous confections like Lemon Tea Cake and Quince Paste. Chen offers humorous, though sometimes overly sentimental, descriptions of her strict Catholic upbringing and the family's superstitions (Fridays and Tuesdays are bad days for trips; don't leave a hat or purse on a bed) as well as a portrayal of the Americanization of 1950s Italy. Chen, a correspondent for Italian newspapers, also includes several simple recipes, such as Caponatina alla Mia Maniera (My Eggplant and Celery) and Merluzzo al Vapore (Steamed Cod) and Hen's Milk. (Mar.)