With intensity and earnestness, Ambrosia (Gloria's Glorious Muffins
) presents the muffin as a humble treat that's "not only wholesome and nutritious but also delicious, heart-healthy, immensely satisfying, and suitable for enjoying any time of day." Muffins are not, as many consider them, cupcake substitutes; most of Ambrosia's recipes call for healthy ingredients like whole wheat pastry and unbleached white or whole wheat flour. Many of the muffins can be assembled in less than 20 minutes with inexpensive ingredients that are kitchen staples (molasses, brown sugar, etc.), though pricier ingredients (maple syrup, fresh raspberries, apple butter, etc.) also befit the simple muffin. Recipes span various types of meals and spice combinations; chapters showcase "Get-Up-and-Go Muffins," "Crunchy, Crumbly, Fruity, Spicy Do-Da Muffins," "Herby Cheesy Muffins Thangs" and "Low-Fat-and-Still-Yummy Muffins." All the regulars are here (sometimes with a twist)—Citrus-Poppy Seed Muffins, Glazed Sunrise Blueberry Muffins, Mexicali Corn Muffins—as well as some stranger-sounding varieties, like Pesto Muffins and Cosmic Cottage Dill Muffins. Ambrosia's loquacious chapter intros can become irksome, but do not take away from the book's overall usefulness. (Jan.)