Steak Lover's Cookbook

Rump. Loin. Skirt. Hoof. Chuck. Flank. Butt. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether food journalist Rice gets greater pleasure from writing these meaty monosyllables or from eating the cuts of beef they name. He's a modified beef purist, which means he accepts the proposition that it's permissible to apply more than fire to a good cut of meat. He'll subject a porterhouse to a sherry-shallot vinaigrette, whip up a Thai marinade for a flank steak or dress a rib-eye steak with a pinot noir buerre rouge. The book is divided into sections devoted to the various cuts of beef, beginning with the tenderloin (and the filets into which it is often cut) and closing with the cheaper cuts like chuck. Rice offers solid, simple recipes for every part of the cow, from an elegant steak au poivre (""The True Steak,"" made with filet mignon) to Chicken-Fried Cube Steak with Pan Gravy. There are also recipes for sides like Steak Fries Without the Frier and Okra with Toasted Onions and Cumin. Although many of the preparations require a good outdoor grill, Rice is a big fan of pan-frying in a mixture of butter and olive oil. He broils, too (though most home broilers simply won't do a prime cut of meat justice). With sidenotes on favored steakhouses, shopping tips and ample cow lore, this cookbook offers plenty for both the casual and the committed carnivore to chew on. Author tour. (Dec.)