Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors

Cosselmon, executive chef of San Francisco’s restaurant, Kokkari, presents its “Modern Greek cuisine with a ‘Califo­r­nia fresh’ sensibility.” Cosselmon (with journalist Fletcher) breaks down this collection of more than 90 recipes by course, along with chapters “In the Kitchen,” and “Greek Cooking Basics” to instruct home cooks on Greek flavors and ingredients and cooking techniques. Familiar favorites such as spanakotyropita (spinach and cheese pastry), avgolemoni (an egg-lemon chicken rice soup), and grilled octopus have their place, and seasonality is given top priority throughout, like the marides tiganites (crispy smelt with skordalia and lemon), bizelosalata (sweet green peas and feta), and blood orange granita with yogurt sorbet. While many of the mezes, small-plate appetizers, can be whipped up quickly, mains such as the spit-roasted lamb and papousakia (stuffed eggplant) and desserts including rizogalo (warm rice pudding) require planning ahead and a time commitment beyond what most can muster on a weekday evening. The design feels slightly outdated, and while some full-color photographs entice, the overall visual package doesn’t do justice to these Greek recipes that would make yia yia proud. (Nov.)