Wild about Salads

If your idea of a salad consists of a wedge of iceberg lettuce with cherry tomatoes and bottled dressing, prepare for a surprise. With our increased interest in eating healthfully, salads have evolved into elegantly zesty combinations of ingredients fit to serve as a main course. And they're still good for you. Bianco, a New York Newsday food writer, has compiled recipes that offer many choices and are very simple to make. But there are drawbacks. No suggestions are given for substitutions if exotic ingredients are unavailable. Nor does Bianco explain why she pairs particular ingredients or what combination of flavor or texture she is trying to achieve. And some recipes call for grilled meats and vegetables, though not all readers enjoy access to outdoor mesquite grills and may have to make do with a mere broiler. The majority of these recipes, while healthy, aren't cheap, calling for pounds of crabmeat, almond oil, duck breast, fresh basil and arugula. But recipes for making your own oils and vinegars are excellent and tasty. Photos not seen by PW. (Apr.)