The Best of Craig Claiborne: 1,000 Recipes from His New York Times Food Columns and Four of His Classic Cookbooks

As food editor of the New York Times from the 1950s to the '80s, Claiborne (The New York Times Cookbook) had access to the work of top chefs--and is therefore in a position to offer readers Hunan Lamb from the wok of Tsung Ting Wang and instructions for Homemade Pasta from Marcella Hazan. Having so many contributors can cause confusion, however: just after Hazan posits that spaghetti marries well with thin sauces, Le Cirque contributes a Spaghetti Primavera with chunks of vegetables. The changes in culinary tastes during the time of Claiborne's editorship are reflected here with recipes that range from ladies' luncheon food (Profiteroles with Tarragon-Flavored Chicken Hash) to lighter new-wave fare (Seafood and Orzo Salad) to comfort food (Gingerbread Pudding with Dark Beer Sabayon). There is hardly an ethnic cuisine left untouched, as Claiborne hopscotches from Ukrainian Shchi (Sauerkraut and Beef Soup) to Misoshiru (Japanese Bean Soup). This sizable cookbook covers the simple (Veal and Artichokes), the complex (Croissants) and the few add-on recipes, such as Anything Mayonnaise Salad. While headers seem included haphazardly (some recipes cry out for them, stand unmarked) the recipes themselves are clear and easy to follow. (Oct.)