Sun-Dried Tomatoes!

Though the idea of a sun-dried tomato cookbook may seem appallingly trendy, Chesman ( Salsa! ) does a fine job of coaxing a fad to yield its fruit. She gives the delicacy its due as a far more punchy stand-in for fresh tomatoes, and as one with a strong ``affinity for the ingredients that are the mainstay of Italian cuisine.'' Her recipes are original (vermicelli with no-cook tomato sauce); light (baked spaghetti squash with tomatoes); convenient (quick chicken paella, sun-dried tomato and provolone bread); and simple to prepare (leek and feta cheese pizza). And the author understands the needs of busy cooks--she includes instructions for freezing and thawing pizza dough and uses a selection of perfectly acceptable frozen ingredients. Acknowledging the fact that sun-dried tomatoes can soar in price, she discusses methods for home-drying (but, unfortunately, neglects to mention drying time for conventional oven preparation). All told, Chesman persuasively makes room in the average American kitchen for a onetime luxury. (June)