Where There's Smoke

Seaver, a D.C. chef and expert on sustainability and oceanic ecosystems, doesn't mind releasing a bit of carbon into the air in this collection of recipes for the grill that focus as much on seafood and vegetables as beef and chicken. Gas grill aficionados are asked to kindly step aside in favor of a charcoal fire seasoned with mesquite, hickory, oak, or cherry wood. Smoke, as the title suggests, lies at the heart of these offerings. Clams, lamb, pork ribs, and duck breasts get the smoke treatment, as do several other surprising foodstuffs. There's smoky lemonade, smoky gazpacho, smoky deviled eggs, and smoked mackerel dip. And when wood is just not enough, Seaver gets creative. For his spiced pork tenderloin he advises adding cinnamon and star anise directly to the fire for extra aromatic complexity. Bonus features include a source list for ordering eco-friendly food and a short section on wines for the grill where zinfandel battles it out against chenin blanc. Seaver includes clever tips on wine salts, seasoning blends which will "introduce complementary flavors to spark the wines." Pinot Noir salt, for example, contains cinnamon, fennel seeds, paprika, and grated shitake mushrooms. (Apr.)