A Spirited Guide to Vermouth

Bevan, a British writer and cocktail creator, provides a sweeping view of vermouth in this fun and informative volume. The first 100 pages explore the fortified wine’s backstory, unearthing a history that reaches to the second millennium BC, while also offering an encyclopedic exploration of the most often used botanicals and aromatics. The heart of the book focuses on how best to drink vermouth, drawing from classic guides like Harry Craddock’s The Savoy Cocktail Book and Albert Crockett’s 1934 The Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book. For purists, there are suggested brands to drink neat, alongside an appropriate garnish, including Punt e Mes paired with pickled walnut and orange. An extensive cocktail list naturally contains a deep dive into the martini and its many variations; the negroni also receives ample attention with some two dozen adaptations, including the Campfire Boulevardier, enlivened by a smoky Laphroaig (measurements throughout are listed only in metric units). A couple “reverse” recipes put the emphasis on vermouth, such as the soaking wet martini, which has a more than three-to-one ratio of vermouth to gin. The book’s final section turns to food, with instructions for bar snacks and entrées made with the wine, such as vermouth-cured venison haunch. With a blend of dry wit and sweet concoctions, Bevan stirs up a perfect treat for vermouth enthusiasts. (June)