Risotto: Over 100 Delicious 'Little Rice' Recipes

Risotto--that creamy rice dish from the north of Italy--is one of the world's perfect foods: rich yet digestible, soft yet chewy. When made with traditional Italian ingredients, it's heavenly. Yet Stacey and Hawkins (Steam Cuisine and Classic Vegetarian Recipes, respectively) feel the need to tamper with perfection by making all kinds of unorthodox risottos. Oriental Vegetable Risotto probably tastes fine, but why not make fried rice instead? And the flavors in Persian Lamb Risotto would probably go better with pilaf. The list of international partners goes on: Risotto Coq au Vin, Thai Coconut Risotto and Colcannon Risotto. Several recipes fail to take advantage of one of risotto's strong points--that it provides a one-dish meal--by instructing readers to cook an item separately and simply set it on the risotto once cooked; this is the case with White Fish Wraps with Mustard Risotto, and Risotto with Coriander Meatballs. Introductory information about risotto techniques is satisfactory, and there are some nontraditional winners here, including a brilliant Risotto Rosso featuring beets, a savory Rabbit Risotto with Mustard and Prunes and a chocolate-orange dessert risotto made by incorporating simmering milk rather than broth. Some palates will also appreciate such original combos as Venison with Kumquat-Walnut Risotto. (Apr.)