The New England Cookbook

In this ambitious cookbook, Dojny (AMA Family Health Cookbook) mines her Norwalk, Conn., childhood to bring Americans a hearty dose of Yankee tradition. She emphasizes seafood from the coast, with heavy infusions of Hungarian, Italian and Greek cuisines and the occasional light departure (Laos-in-Vermont Crispy Raw Vegetable Spring Rolls). The narrative conjures a quaint atmosphere of roadside diners (Athena Diner Avgolemono), county fairs and clam shacks. Strong points include classic starches like Golden Corn Pudding and Classic Parker House Rolls, and the poultry and dessert (Lucetta Peabody's Baked Fudge Pudding Cake) sections. Some recipes, however, do not provide sufficient information about preparation times, storage and substitutions: for example, Narragansett Beer Battered Fish 'n' Chips, while scrumptious, may need water to lighten the batter when unforewarned cooks have no flat beer; and in most of the chowders (Thick and Creamy Boston Clam Chowder, Milky Maine Steamer Chowder, and Nor'easter Baked Fish Chowder) the author doesn't advise which stock is the best option--clam broth, clam juice or fish stock. But Dojny's many homely dishes (Hungarian Beef Goulash, Vineyard Chicken and Corn Chowder) well suit a bleak day on Nantucket. Author tour. (Oct.)