Foodtopia: Communities in Pursuit of Peace, Love, & Homegrown Food

Environmental writer Kelley (Local Treasures) puts a human face on the back-to-the-land movement with fascinating profiles of the “renegades” behind the centuries-old phenomenon. Tracing food’s function as political expression throughout history, Kelley paints in vivid detail the lives of such food pioneers as homesteader Scott Nearing, coauthor of the 1954 classic Living the Good Life, and Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters; dips into Walden Pond, Thoreau’s “utopian back-to-the-land experiment”; explores the food activism of the Diggers of 1960s San Francisco, who believed that “food should not be corporatized”; and moves to the present, examining the ways the Covid pandemic gave rise to a new crop of millennial farmers. Kelley, herself “part of a shift in the zeitgeist” when she and her husband left Boston for Maine in the 2000s, employs an earnest, occasionally poetic tone (“The air was suffused with the scents of rhubarb and Earl Grey tea”) but isn’t starry-eyed, taking pains to underscore the persistent “racial inequity in the US food system.” Whether assessing the influence of the macrobiotic diet or considering a project to repurpose a former county jail into a grain mill, she excels at drawing the big picture around human relationships to food, resulting in a satisfyingly substantive work. Farmers and foodies will savor every delectable insight. (Aug.)