Salamati: Hamed’s Persian Kitchen: Recipes and Stories from Iran to the Other Side of the World

In this satisfying debut, chef Allahyari weaves together personal and culinary history with recipes that call forth the flavors of his native Tehran. As he details in his elegiac opening, Allahyari, under threat as an atheist (“a really big deal” in Iran), fled to Australia in 2012 with his pregnant girlfriend, where he began teaching cooking classes and, in 2019, opened SalamaTea, a Persian restaurant outside of Melbourne. Drawing on the recipes from SalamaTea’s kitchen, Allahyari embraces both traditional choices from Silk Road cuisine and new inventions, like savory “truffles” of feta, fennel seeds, and ground walnuts. Persian food’s zesty and herbaceous traits show in solid recipes including eggplant that is grilled, pan-fried, and topped with kashk or yogurt, and a bracing salad of tomatoes and pomegranate seeds dressed with vinegar and pomegranate molasses. Chapters arranged by course are interspersed with suggested menus: a lavish winter spread centers pilaf and chicken stew, while an array of street foods includes Persian hot dogs, and ice cream with pistachios, saffron, and rosewater. Endearing headnotes continue the thread of personal connection and also drop in cultural tidbits: a cucumber soup garnished with rose petals, for instance, is considered conducive to afternoon napping. The result is a fresh and heartfelt take on a storied cuisine with enduring appeal. (Sept.)