The Nutmeg Trail: Recipes and Stories Along the Ancient Spice Routes

“The story of food can sometimes be the story of humanity, and nowhere does that seem more true than in the case of the spice routes,” asserts food and travel writer Ford (Fire Islands) in this delectable account. Noting that three-quarters of the world’s nutmeg is still grown in Indonesia’s Banda Islands, Ford explains how its complex flavor profile—sweet and warming, but also woody, astringent, bitter, and floral—has led to its inclusion in such global spice blends as India’s garam masala and Somolia’s xawaash. Nutmeg also serves as a touchstone for Ford’s “culinary detective” research into dozens of other spices, which goes back as far as 50000 BCE and hits plenty of fascinating historical markers (in the 15th century, Ford notes, Christopher Columbus misnamed chilies as “peppers”). The accompanying recipes, drawn from the likes of Somalia and Mauritius as well as Asia and the Middle East, are just as enticing, especially a standout Sri Lankan pumpkin curry that Ford hails as “one of the most memorable meals of my life,” in which curry leaves and black mustard and cumin seeds are bloomed in hot oil. The result is a transportive blend of stories and meals that are as enlightening as they are piquant. (May)