Gateau: The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes

James Beard Award–winning writer Crapanzano (Eat. Cook. L.A.) demystifies the art of French baking at home in this delightfully illustrated guide. Drawing on the lessons she’s learned while living in Paris, she offers recipes that aim to assure readers that “Parisian culinary ease... is a choice, not a genetic superpower.” Indeed, her yogurt-based cakes prove to be quick and pantry-friendly, while a simple pound cake recipe is accompanied by dozens of variations for flavor mix-ins. Headnotes offer enticing commentary on the food culture; in a recipe for hazelnut cake, she notes: “The French are rightly loath to eat processed cereal and packaged granola bars, preferring instead to have a taste of something made by hand.” Chocolate cakes and genoise merit their own chapters, with creations inspired by notable bakers, Dorie Greenspan among them. A simple syrup that substitutes red wine for water enriches Crapanzano’s flourless chocolate cake, while an effortless genoise recipe—consisting of eggs, sugar, and cake flour—comes with surefire “tricks of the trade” that include the right length of time for beating the eggs, and proper storage of the cake. Even Crapanzano’s more aspirational cakes, such as the pistachio roulade with morello cherries, seem undaunting, thanks to her thoughtful instructions. Home bakers take heed—even a brief perusal of this excellent book may lead one to acquire large quantities of butter. (Sept.)