Provence: The Beautiful Cookbook

Provence has long been a magnet for artists, writers and those in search of a good climate. And yet, while Provence was the birthplace of Auguste Escoffier, the patron saint of French cooking, Provencal cooking itself has been relegated to the sidelines of French cuisine. It relies on simple ingredients like garlic, onions and anchovies, and therein lies its charm. Provence is composed of the Alpes Maritimes, Alpes-De-Haute Provence, the Vaucluse region, the Bouches-du-Rhone and Var. Within these five areas can be found lavender fields, Marseilles fishing boats and the celebrity-laden Cote d'Azur. Likewise, the cuisine varies, drawing heavily from its Italian influence and from local bounty from the sea and soil. This latest in Collins's ``Beautiful Cookbook'' series features recipes gathered by Olney ( Simple French Food ), who has clearly enjoyed himself while doing so. He ably introduces the reader to the traditions of Provencal cooking with clear, articulate recipes. The book is divided into 10 chapters, five of which discuss the history and gastronomic development of particular regions, the other five of which cover soups, fish, meats, vegetables and desserts. Olney also includes a useful glossary of terms from which the reader will learn how to make aioli, coulis and mirepoix, the building-blocks of Provencal cooking. He also includes valuable advice on matching Provencal wines with dishes. With its lush photographs of food and scenery, this is a book to savor, whether in the library or the kitchen. (Sept.)