Corn: A Country Garden Cookbook
David Tanis. Collins Publishers San Francisco, $14.95 (0pp) ISBN 978-0-00-255450-3
Chez Panisse alumnus and chef/co-owner of Santa Fe's Cafe Escalera, Tanis gives corn a summery-and, compared to Fussell (see review above), summary-treatment in this latest volume in the publisher's Country Garden Cookbook series. Forty recipes, each accompanied by a tempting Deborah Jones photo illustrating the finished dish, follow a brief but thorough introduction to the grain, Zea mays. Recipes featuring corn as first course, main event and accompaniment emphasize its American heritage (Hushpuppies, Spoon Bread, Fritters, Succotash). Laced through are cameo appearances from other cuisines (Polenta Torta with Ricotta and Basil Pesto; Sea Scallops with Baby Corn, Ginger, Cilantro and Lime; Posole) and modern American dishes (Lobster and Arugula Salad with Corn Salsa). Like earlier volumes in the series, this collection conveys an appealingly attentive, unhurried way of life and a way with food to match. (June)
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Reviewed on: 05/29/1995
Genre: Nonfiction