Cook It Light Classics

While the premise of this volume is timely--updating old standbys with new, lighter versions--the latest entry from columnist Jones ( Eating Smart ) may frustrate even the most die-hard fans. Yes, there are certainly good ideas here (Maryland crab cakes reinforced with whole wheat bread and tofu, and molasses brownies), yet the work seems a hastily pulled-together assortment of unrelated recipes. And yes, nutritional information is included, but when portion sizes for entrees alone (the basis of the nutritional analysis) bounce from 1121/2 -cup servings to 121/2 -cup and 343/4 -cup servings, the nu- tritional guide becomes suspect. (A recipe for light pancakes gives ingredients for a five-pancake batch and a nutritional breakdown for one pancake.) Explanations of recipes and ingredients are woefully sparse. Jones presents a fine idea for a light aioli, for example35 , but without explanation or introduction, novice cooks (presumably the book's target audience) will likely be confused about how and when to serve this south-of-France staple. Literary Guild alternate. (Nov.)