THE ULTIMATE POTATO BOOK: Hundreds of Ways to Turn America's Side Dish into a Meal

You can never have too many potato cookbooks. Weinstein and Scarbrough, of Morrow's Ultimate series, distinguish their work from other spud books by emphasizing potatoes as a main-dish ingredient rather than as a side. This can be distracting when what you really want is a side (you have to go to Shepherd's Pie or Bangers and Mash for mashed potatoes), but the results are generally impressive. Recipes are alphabetical and presented without excessive fanfare; a one-word title often suffices. There is something really appealing about being able to look under the letter H and find a basic recipe for Hash. Weinstein and Scarbrough hedge their bets by offering up a multitude of variations, which can take them into some uncharted territory (Prune-Armagnac Potato Coffee Cake, Sake Fondue). Some purists may wonder if Ceviche, Borscht and Shrimp Balls really belong in a potato book. But the more obvious entries—Latkes, Moussaka, Knishes, Potato Skins—are included, along with a few pricelessly eccentric applications ("a cut potato makes a great tool to remove a broken light bulb") There's the usual guide to potatoes and the potato-vs.-yam lecture, as well as a strikingly meticulous list ("yellow and red" vs. "yellow or red") that indexes recipes by potato type used. Witty and user-friendly, this volume is a fine contribution to potato publishing. (June)