Fruit Desserts: Delectable Seasonal Sweets

In the knowing style of the practiced cook and writer, Yockelson ( Country Cakes ) presents more than 75 recipes for desserts that ``take full advantage of the abundance of the summer farm standsic , autumn harvest, or winter citrus crop.'' Beginning with the simplest of fruit treats, such as compotes and salads, Yockelson then moves on to more complicated fare like pies and ice creams. Throughout, she maintains a balance of showy recipes (rum-poached plums with spiced custard; melange of dried fruit with cinnamon creme fraiche) and homespun standards (apple brown Betty,per Web.eed strawberry shortcake). A concluding chapter, ``The Fruit Kitchen,'' includes practical suggestions for enhancing fruit desserts--for example, through the use of fresh fruit syrups and scented sugars. The two-page section ``Working with Fruit'' offers handy solutions to the pesky problems of removing peel from peaches, coring apples and extracting meat from a coconut. Instructions are clearly presented; recipes are made as uncomplicated as possible. Like a good piece of fruit, this book is simple and satisfying--and a worthy reminder that there is more than chocolate to dessert. (May)