Marcella Cucina

Celebrated author and cooking teacher Hazan works magic once again in this collection of Italian recipes. Somehow, Hazan manages to respect tradition and foster innovation simultaneously. Her Ligurian Raw Fava Bean Spread, Baked Stuffed Tomatoes Bari-Style with Anchovies and Capers, and Pan-Roasted Rabbit Riviera-Style with Herbs, Walnuts, and Olives combine familiar Italian flavors in ways that will be new to many American readers. Poached Fresh Tuna Marinated with a Caper and Anchovy Sauce made in the style of classic vitello tonnato is one of many tasteful variations. Hazan introduces some new techniques with dishes like Pleated Ravioli Piedmontese-Style Stuffed with Meat and Savoy Cabbage. Assunta's Beans are cooked as slowly as possible, with a damp towel between pot and lid. Short descriptions of recipe groups like those for tramezzini (elegant sandwiches) are informative, and a description of the two basic kinds of pasta--homemade pasta made with soft wheat flour and eggs; boxed pasta made with hard wheat flour (semolina) and water--should be required reading for any cook. Not surprisingly, the chapter on pasta is a standout, with such wonders as Goat Cheese, Chive, and Chili Pepper Sauce for Pasta and the simple Savoy Cabbage and Sausage Pasta Sauce. The headers are charming, full of detail about both food and Hazan's longtime marriage; and the recipes cover a wide geographical base, from a Granny Smith Apple Sorbet with Muscat Wine and Grappa that calls for wine from Piedmont to Green Ravioli Pesaro-Style Stuffed with Lamb and Sauced with Yellow Peppers from central Italy's Marche region. BOMC/Good Cook main selection; first serial to Food & Wine. (Oct.)