In Nonna's Kitchen: Recipes and Traditions from Italy's Grandmothers

Utilizing the image of the grandmother (nonna in Italian), Field (Small Bites of Italy; Celebrating Italy) deftly captures the spirit of warmth and sustenance that characterize the traditions of Italian home cooking. The flavorful recipes gathered here, organized by course and ingredients and interspersed with stories about the contributing nonne, utilize readily available ingredients and do not demand inordinate amounts of time--even old-fashioned nonne had more to do with their waking hours than stand by a kitchen stove. Riso e Zucca suggests risotto without the stirring: diced winter squash is simmered in broth with Arborio rice, enriched with butter and Parmesan cheese. Ravioli in Camicia is pasta-less ravioli: spoon-sized dumplings of spinach and cheese are poached in water and baked with a butter and sage sauce. A polenta dish, ""creamy as scrambled eggs,"" is Toc' in Braide enlivened with sauteed onions and garlic. The sauce of tomatoes, sauteed vegetables and red wine in Pollo alla Contadina (duck or rabbit can substitute for the chicken) is brightened by a final addition of nutmeg and lemon zest. Many of the women whom Field profiles recollect war-time cooking; ingenious, frugal and pragmatic, they promote a tradition that works just as well in time of abundance and, no matter what the economic context, never scants flavor. In Field's hands, the recipes deliver good reading along with delicious dining. (May)