Chez Nous: Home Cooking from the South of France

Marshall (Cooking with Lydie Marshall), a cooking instructor in New York City and at her chateau in Nyons, France, serves forth more than 200 recipes gathered from three generations of Proven al family and friends. Often introduced by personal anecdotes or descriptions of their origins, the recipes are thorough and easy to follow. Simple country fare, relying on seasonal vegetables and fruits, meats, fish and poultry, is celebrated in pates, tians, gratins, stews (daubes and ragouts), soups and tarts. Especially noteworthy are pissaladiere, the Proven al version of pizza, typically topped with onion and anchovy marmalade with olives; fougasse, a flat bread similar to Italian focaccia; and tapenade, a spread made of black olives, capers and anchovies. Although a few recipes, such as the one for Wild Boar Stew, may not be appropriate for American cooks, this is nonetheless an exhilarating gastronomical journey and a reliable culinary guide. First serial to Gourmet; HomeStyle Books main selection. (Apr.)