Four-Star Desserts

""I bake desserts because it makes people happy to eat them,"" explains Luchetti (Stars Desserts), former pastry chef at San Francisco's Stars restaurant. The 150 sophisticated, unfussy recipes here will make people happy twice over--as they cook and as they eat. Luchetti believes a dessert should have only three primary flavors, and she creates intriguing flavor combinations such as Pineapple Banana Compote with Mango Sauce; Warm Bittersweet Chocolate Tartlets with Spiced Almonds; and Raspeberry Lemon Buttermilk Pie. Of note is the organization of recipes, most of which are arranged by principal ingredient into such chapters as ""Citrus and Tropical Fruits,"" ""Summer Berries"" and, of course, ""Chocolate."" Luchetti's range is extensive, embracing the elegant and inventive (Triple-Striped Chocolate Semifreddo with Chocolate Caramel Sauce; White Chocolate Mousse with Raspberries; and White Chocolate Raspberry Brittle), the light (Souffleed Crepe with Mixed Berries), the time-consuming (Mocha Hazelnut Torte) and the simple (Peach Blackberry Cobbler; Bing Cherry Dumplings). There is a section on making garnishes like Candied Cranberry Clusters, Caramel Strawberries and Chocolate Nut Bark, as well as cookies such as Chocolate-Dipped Peanut Butter Cookies and Orange Pecan Florentines. A final, reference chapter includes recipes for pastry doughs, sauces and ice creams. The appealingly designed pages display ingredients listed on one side next to directions in a wider column; most fit on a single page and include presentation tips and ahead-of-time notes. Photos not seen by PW. BOMC/Good Cook selection; author tour. (Oct.)