All on the Grill: 170 Recipes for the Complete Meal, from Savory Starters to Delectable Desserts
Michael McLaughlin. William Morrow Cookbooks, $24 (240pp) ISBN 978-0-06-017383-8
Covering every course from starters to desserts, this collection stretches the conventional definitions of charbroiled food. Sometimes, however, McLaughlin complicates rather than facilitates the preparation of certain dishes. While it makes good sense to use the same fire for side dishes as for a grilled entree, some suggested grilled accompaniments require coal time of their own: the potatoes in Black Bean and Grilled Sweet Potato Salad, for instance, need to be grilled in advance to be served at room temperature. A number of McLaughlin's dishes sport big flavors or draw on fusion themes (Lime Caesar Salads with Grilled Chile-Rubbed Shrimp; Bacon-Wrapped Beef Fillet Steaks with Basil Butter), while others celebrate less complex food (Pork Chops with Tangy Peach Glaze; Flank Steak Haddad marinated in olive oil, garlic, sherry wine vinegar and ginger). Including timetables and menus, McLaughlin (The New American Kitchen) mixes commercial preparations (bottled salad dressings, ready-made pizza crusts or ""process cheese, such as Velveeta"") with fresh foods. Picnic-style hand food includes Drive-In Dogs, Fully Loaded, which are knockwurst dressed with Dijon mustard, sweet pickle relish, chili and cheddar cheese, and Korean Beef and Rice in Lettuce Packages. Some horizon-expanding ideas here (e.g., the grilled fruit in Zabaglione-Peach Parfaits) are likely to inspire many a summer cook. (June)
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Reviewed on: 06/02/1997
Genre: Nonfiction