One Spice, Two Spice

In his debut cookbook, Cardoz, chef of the Danny Meyer–owned Indian fusion restaurant Tabla in Manhattan, successfully demystifies Indian cooking. He takes familiar foods like fish, meats and vegetables and adds a distinctly Indian touch, as in the Seared Scallops with Lime Jaggery Glaze. The collection of recipes is divided in 10 sections, which are organized by food type: e.g., soups, condiments (integral in Indian cooking), vegetables and chicken. With each recipe, Cardoz discusses his inspiration or the significance of the food in Indian culture. He explains that the recipe for Goan-Spiced Roast Pork Tenderloin, for instance, stems from the unique culture that was created when the Portuguese ruled Goa. Recipes reflect Cardoz's inimitable combinations, like the Duck with Black Pepper-Tamarind Jus and Venison Steaks with Coriander, yet most are surprisingly uncomplicated with accessible ingredients. The Roast Lamb with Mint–Black Pepper Sauce made with an aromatic spice rub and a sauce of tomatoes, mint, ginger and garlic is a standout as are such condiments as Boodie's Ketchup with cinnamon, vinegar and shallots and the Curry Leaf Lime Vinaigrette. One wishes only that Cardoz would have included desserts—it would have interesting to see how he applies his peerless cooking style to sweet endings. A 24-page color insert gives life to many of the creations. (Nov.)