Mediterranean Cooking

In this revision of her 1977 volume of the same name, Wolfert (The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean) has replaced many of the richer dishes of that book with 75 new recipes that represent ``some of the best of what the Mediterranean has to offer in terms of health as well as taste.'' The 150 recipes here are also less demanding, epitomizing a culinary simplicity that highlights the flavor of fresh ingredients. Organized around main ingredients rather than courses or geographical borders, the chapters sport such titles as ``Garlic and Oil'' and ``Chick Peas, Lentils and Beans.'' Wolfert pays particular attention to the cooking traditions and specialties of the Italian region of Apulia, of Spain's Andalusia, of Provence, Turkey and, in particular, Tunisia. The latter, in which hot red peppers feature more emphatically than in dishes from neighboring areas, includes recipes for the characteristic spice mixture called tabil, and Gamber Sghir, grilled shrimp accompanied by a spicy tomato-based sauce. More specialized than Joyce Goldstein's Mediterranean: The Beautiful Cookbook, just out from Collins Publishers San Francisco (PW, August 29), Wolfert's revised collection will appeal to adventurous home cooks already familiar with the region's fare. (Oct.)