What’s Cooking in the Kremlin: From Rasputin to Putin, How Russia Built and Empire with a Knife and Fork
Witold Szablowski, trans. from the Polish by Antonia Lloyd-Jones. Penguin, $20 trade paper (384p) ISBN 978-0-143-13718-4
Journalist Szablowski (How to Feed a Dictator) serves up a culinary travelogue infused with dark and savory legends from Russia’s kitchens, dachas, cafeterias, and canteens. He interviews the great-granddaughter of one of Czar Nicholas II’s cooks to find out what the czar and his family ate in their final days before Bolshevik guards executed the whole family, including their chef; evaluates Lenin’s diet of fried eggs, raw milk, and boiled buckwheat for its revolutionary health benefits (and risks); muses on how Stalin’s love for his native Georgian food brought a “genuine gastronomic revolution” to the U.S.S.R.; and relays firsthand accounts from survivors of the 1930s famine in Ukraine and the 1941–1944 Siege of Leningrad about eating soups made from pinecones and breads baked with ground tree bark. Among those he spotlights are Faina Kazetska, the Star City cook who prepared meals for Yuri Gagarin and other Soviet cosmonauts; the dozen young women from Pripyat who cooked for the cleanup crews after the nuclear meltdown at Chernobyl; and Kremlin chef Viktor Belyaev, whose lavish feasts dazzled delegations of Western leaders including Margaret Thatcher and Richard Nixon. Szablowski’s account is enriched with recipes gathered during his travels throughout Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, and several ex-Soviet republics. Readers will be satiated by this easily digestible gastronomic history. (Nov.)
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Reviewed on: 08/08/2023
Genre: Nonfiction