Brother Juniper's Bread Book: Slow Rise as Method and Metaphor

Brother Juniper's Bakery in Sonoma County, Calif., is run by Brother Peter Reinhart and his wife Sister Susan as a ministry of the Christ the Saviour Brotherhood. And Reinhart's subtitle introduces some amiable confusion, for whereas the author argues for the ``slow rise'' method as a general principle in developing ``character'' in a bread and crust and demonstrates its application in a fine recipe and procedure for ``Sweet French Bread,'' more frequently he departs from it. The highly praised ``Struan,'' for instance, a five-grain traditional Scottish ``golden loaf'' that ``radiates in many directions,'' tolerates only two rather quick risings, character being born by ``conditioners'' such as buttermilk and polenta, rather than process. Brother Peter's wish to present a central principle for bread lets us in for a certain amount of New Age claptrap that is, however, well balanced by pragmatism. He makes insightful use of whole grains but has not a word to spare for unleavened breads. This book has much to say to the experienced baker, although the novice will find basics adequately covered. (Oct.)