Classic is a relative term, and for those who already know that sweet Charentais melon goes with a nice Pineau des Charentes, this book may be unnecessary. For everyone else, Roux (The Marathon Chef
) provides some helpful hints on what to serve with Stilton, roast grouse, or cold seafood soup. But all of that is handled up front in a quick couple of pages. What follows, unexpectedly, is a rich, very rustic and generally French cookbook. Each recipe does end with a list of two or three compatible wines (and, occasionally, beers), but the essential lessons of this collection are the hearty dishes Roux has perfected in the more than 10 years he has been at London's Le Gavroche restaurant. Appetizers include Duck Scratchings, which are, as la Lyonnaise know, strips of duck skin crisped in fat. A menagerie of main courses include Braised Trout in Riesling, a bacon-stoked Rabbit Paella, and Lambs' Tongues with Watercress (which probably sounds more appetizing in French). A full chapter on the cheese course pairs deep-fried Camembert with Tasmanian Sparkling Wine, and Crispy Gruyère Pancakes with light Chianti. Additionally, a clever in-reverse section suggests what food goes best with a few important special wines. Photos. (Oct. 15)
