A New Turn in the South

Acheson is a Canadian by birth and a Southerner by choice. With a restaurant in Atlanta and three others in Athens, his outsider versions of down home classics have become well known in Georgia. Here, in his first cookbook, he flexes his southern hospitality to share over 120 of the creations that have started him on the road to celebrity chefdom. Not surprisingly, peanuts are a prominent ingredient, but they turn up in the most unexpected ways: boiled peanut hummus, peanut soup with avocado, and in a risotto along with okra, ham and ramps (a leek-like wild onion). Fruits, both sweet and sour also make surprise appearances. Marinated anchovies are embellished with ruby red grapefruit and country ham is served with mango and red pepper flakes. Mint grows wild in Georgia, and there is no controlling it here either as it finds its way into dishes diverse as grilled poussin, chilled cucumber mint soup, and lamb shanks with minted turnips. The recipes are pleasantly succinct, with short musings by the chef acting as preamble to many of them. He touches upon his disdain for bouillon cubes and his preferences when it comes to collards. He also takes a four-page pause midway through the work to reflect on his favorite ingredient: the community he serves. (Oct.)