Great Italian Desserts

Gelato and pannetone are only the most popular Italian desserts; they keep company here with more than 100 pastries and cakes, cookies and puddings introduced by Malgieri ( Nick Malgieri's Perfect Pastry ), former executive pastry chef of New York City's Windows on the World. Authoritative and personable, Malgieri takes his cue from his grandmother, including the cinchy with the sophisticated. (Malgieri even includes recipes for ricotta and mascarpone, staples of Italian cream pastry fillings and cakes, ``since outside American cities with large Italian populations, these may be hard to find.'') Chapters cover yeast-risen pastries, fried pastries, pies and pastries made with sweet dough, puff pastries, plain cakes, layer cakes, biscotti and other cookies, ``spoon'' desserts such as puddings and custards, and frozen confections such as granita and gelato. Surprises abound, as in Sicilian watermelon pudding made with pistachios and chocolate, and Malgieri's anecdotes and nuggets of historical information make good reading to go along with good eating. Illustrations not seen by PW. Author tour; first serial to Cooks, Chocolatier, Food & Wine. (Oct.)