Lasagne

The best thing about this approach to lasagna-one of the last socially acceptable casseroles-is its flexibility. Wright (Cucina Rapida) offers quick fixes for the cook who has layered his way to the top and discovered he is missing that finishing mantle of sauce. Advice may be basic, but it's not simplistic: fresh mozzarella, which gives off extra moisture when cooked, requires thicker-than-usual sauce. Instructions on preparation of the pasta and recipes for common sauces precede chapters on lasagna baked or free-form (i.e., tossed with sauce). The dishes have a certain similarity, based as they are on real Italian tradition: no ham and pineapple variations here. Mostly it's meat (including prosciutto, rabbit, tuna and eel) with tomato (sauce, paste, puree, fresh), some dairy (mozzarella, ricotta, Bechamel) and spices. In Lasagne con Anitra, duck is paired with a rich Bechamel, butter and heavy cream; Lasagnette e Lumache features snails, olive oil, garlic and parsley. Many of the meatless variations skip the tomato and head straight for cholesterolic comfort-mozzarella, fontina, heavy cream and butter in one case, and gorgonzola, mascarpone, parmesan and a cup of ground walnuts in another. With his emphasis on the craft of making lasagna, Wright emboldens readers to experiment on their own. (May)