Spanish Table

Wine connoisseurs may recognize the Torres name as that of a Spanish winery, and, indeed, the author represents the family firm in North America. Here the amateur gourmet cook concentrates on the cuisine of her native country, offering recipes that illustrate its intriguing variety. Dishes such as chicken in orange and mint sauce or sweetbreads in a honey and sherry vinegar sauce reflect an Arab influence. Some offerings, like bean stew with sausages, Asturian style, readily display their local origins while others, including veal medallions in orange sauce and stuffed rabbit saddle with vegetables, subtly modify regional influences into strikingly modern and elegant dishes. While a few recipes come from the Torres family, many originate with professional chefs. A number of entrees require lengthy preparation, including one or two wines (often fortified) as ingredients. However, the clear instructions that reduce procedures to smaller, less daunting stages may encourage cooks to experiment. Given the author's background, readers will be disappointed that the wine chapter emphasizes growing regions rather than practical suggestions for serving Spanish wines with the dishes in this book. Illustrations. (November 21)