Working a Duck

This may be the definitive guide to the duck: a rather underappreciated bird, suffering, according to the authors, from the notion that it's calorie-rich and loaded with fats and oils. In this collaboration, a first cookbook for Phillips, sous chef at New York City's Chanterelle, and sometime sommelier McElroy, recipes complement thoughtful and informed wine commentary. While the book begins with a rather unappealing introduction (a description of the foul flavor of sea duck meat), the authors present both classical and original recipes for cooking and saucing duck, establishing themselves as skilled food professionals, if not the most gifted writers. Some of the more interesting recipes include a foie gras, avocado and aspic terrine, duck cannelloni with red wine sauce and crispy shallots, sauteed red snapper with foie gras sauce, and Thai duck stew with red curry. Techniques for boning, butchering, carving, roasting and producing duck stock, demi-glaces and confit (including a fascinating garlic-only confit) make this gathering a valuable contribution. (Feb.)