The Way to Cook

Child's new magnum opus reminds us that she has almost single-handedly inspired the superb quality of modern larders. Without her unflagging commitment to good eating, it is doubtful that fresh duck foie gras would have been available for the saute included here. However, this wonderful book is hardly a paean to elitist fare, maintaining Child's unique perspective while reflecting attitudes about food that ``have changed through these last years'' and sharing much new knowledge. Recipes, divided into a master formula and variations, are grouped by technique; French classics stand fin-to-wing with American offerings (roast turkey). Dietary concerns are addressed with low-fat soups and a cottage cheese-enriched chicken liver mousse. Nevertheless, the author of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, who would ``rather swoon over . . . one small serving of chocolate mousse . . . than indulge one . . . fat-free gelatin puddings,'' has not gone light. Six hundred handsome photographs underscore Child's technical genius. 110,000 first printing; BOMC main selection. (Oct.)