Mediterranean Cookery

This lively collection, abundantly illustrated with color pictures, explores the diverse homestyle cookery of the cities and towns that dot the Mediterranean coastline. Accompanied by brief notes on places of origin, the offerings require only a bit of confidence in the kitchen and a willingness to experiment with new flavors. Spanish sweet pepper and potato omelette, Tunisian pumpkin puree made with a fiery paste of chilis and garlic, Israeli avocado and citrus salad, and Nicean onion tart with anchovies are among the appetizers and ""little dishes.'' Fish and seafood are represented by a variety of recipes, such as Syrian sweet-and-sour fish stuffed with rice, scallops Provencal, Greek stuffed squid and Turkish sea bass in paper parcels. Tunisian lamb stew with dates and apricots, Moroccan chicken with tomatoes and honey or that country's traditional bisteeya (pigeon or chicken pie) demonstrate the range of meat and poultry recipes. An enticing asssortment of desserts and sweetsan Arab-inspired recipe for apricots stuffed with almond paste, Catalan cream and Italian chocolate cream cakewill crown the meals. Cairo-born and bred, food writer Roden teaches Middle Eastern cooking in London. (November 3)