Bradley Ogden's Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

At first glance, Ogden's book appears rich in high-calorie recipes apt to require Herculean effort in the kitchen. Dishes like bitter chocolate waffle with creme fraiche and shaved chocolate, or crab cakes with ancho chili remouladesic may send the average Joe running to the nearest diet center or take-out restaurant. Closer perusal, however, proves that Ogden is not out to add pounds or gray hairs. Instead, he transforms the very basic with interesting combinations of flavors--peach sauce for bread-and-butter pudding; kumquatssic and tangerines for an endive salad. The author, proprietor of the Lark Creek Inn in California's Marin County, also suggests substitutions (e.g., yogurt for creme fraiche) to lower fat content. A range of choices, from humble corned beef hash to exotic grilled pheasant with pancetta and red Swiss chard, is provided. Along with these are recipes for making your own pasta dough, butters, preserves and stocks, if so inclined. Be advised that while Ogden makes serving recommendations, he does not supply any do-ahead or time-saving tips. So read the recipes and plan your time carefully to give these dishes the attention they deserve. Author tour. (June)