Helen Nash's Kosher Kitchen

This is a disappointing sequel to Nash's excellent first book for the adventurous kosher cook, Kosher Cuisine. Claiming that she had ``many more ideas and dishes'' that she wanted to share, the author in fact offers few that are new. Many from Kosher Cuisine reappear with new names but no marked difference in preparation (kreplach are called piroshki, but the recipes are identical). Nash's introduction is an abbreviated version of her first, and her notes on ingredients, equipment and techniquesshortened and less informativeare also largely duplicated. Other inconsistencies mar the book: though she notes that ``there are at least 75 different species of fish allowed'' under kosher rules, over half of Nash's fish recipes concern salmon. However, the recipes are genuinely healthful and nutritious, emphasizing simply cooked, low-fat dishes (steamed fish and vegetables, braised meats, simply dressed salads). A chapter on wine, not written by Nash, helps us choose from among new kosher varieties. Cooks unfamiliar with Nash can certainly use this book, but anyone who knows her first will not need it. (Nov.)