Franklin Steak: Dry-Aged. Live-Fired. Pure Beef.

Franklin, the founder of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Tex., turns his attention away from his award-winning low and slow techniques to focus on what he calls “the quick, easy way to taste that beautiful union of beef and fire.” But before the meat meets the heat, he and food writer Mackay provide a thorough guide to every step of the process. After an introduction to human’s history with beef, Franklin holds forth with lessons for buying steaks (“do look for fat” but “avoid connective tissue”), the joys of dry aging, the difference between a T-bone and a tenderloin, and a bonus list of “Ten Butcher Shop Steak Commandments” (Number two: don’t ask “Is that steak any good?”). Heat sources are covered in an equally comprehensive fashion—charcoal and wood chips are surveyed, as are stoves and grills. The penultimate chapter at last addresses the actual grilling and is worth the wait, with its discussion of pros and cons of various techniques such as cooking directly on the coals or reverse searing. Franklin concludes with a discerning collection of recipes for sides (twice-baked potato), sauces (charred jalapeno-anchovy compound butter), and suggestions for beer and wine pairings. This is a thoughtful deep dive into a much-loved American mainstay. [em](Apr.) [/em]