Cocolat: Extraordinary Chocolate Desserts

Fourteen years ago, Medrich left business school to open a dessert shop in Berkeley, Calif., that specialized in European sweets. The shop was named Cocolat, ``a whimsical word . . . to suggest chocolate in all its simple and elegant splendor.'' Here Medrich shares her favorite and bestselling recipes. The desserts include bittersweet chocolate truffle tart and a Kahlua-and-chocolate-laced pate trompe; most are illustrated with a fetching full-page photo. As expected with such splendors, they are complex to make. Most are combinations of recipe components that Medrich calls ``building blocks,'' including chocolate genoise, chocolate souffle pastry and ladyfingers. Although it is difficult to consider a chapter consisting of these as ``handy,'' her chapter is, consolidating a bookful of basics into one dense section. Other useful elements are troubleshooting guides and shortcut and production tips. No preparation times are included. Any recipe, like that for cranberry Christmas cake, that requires the beforehand preparation of candied cranberries, creme fraiche and chocolate genoise will not be attempted by clock-watchers. Like the Ecole Lenotre, which Medrich attended, Cocolat is challenging and potentially rewarding--but not for the faint-of-kitchen. (Oct.)