Superchefs: Signature Recipes from America's New Royalty

Ambitious recipes presented with sometimes vague directions aim this collection towards cooks with lots of time, know-how and ambition. In trying to domesticate more than 150 recipes devised in great North American restaurants, Zahler (Taste of New York) follows in the exacting footsteps of owners and chefs of such venues as New York's Park Avenue Cafe, New Orleans's Bayona and Berkeley's Chez Panisse. This elite membership includes Wolfgang Puck, Johanne Killeen, Emeril Lagasse and David Burke. Many of the recipes here pose significant challenges, even to the accomplished amateur cook. For example, two bold appetizers--Beggar's Purses with Lobster and Black Truffles (crepe pouches holding savory filling, are pleated around the top and tied with a single chive), and Corn Flan with Smoked Salmon and Chives baked and served in empty eggshells--are hard to imagine being served in the home. Torte of Whipped Marscapone and Porcini Essence is suitable only for the very adventurous cook and fails to list among the ingredients the crepes with which the cheese and mushroom filling are layered. Constructing just the lattice work for the Chocolate Tower dessert will severely test the dexterity (and patience) of most readers. Simpler dishes are better fare: Baby Clams in Light Broth with Sake or Grilled Tuna Steak with Nectarine-Red Onion Relish. Yet even these seem directed at home cooks more focused on making an impression than a fine meal. (Oct.)