Grand Finales: A Neoclassic View of Plated Desserts

In their third in a series (after Chocolate Passion) of books on plated desserts, Boyle and Moriarty (of Chocolatier magazine) pool the talents of various pastry chefs to assemble a collection of beautiful desserts that will challenge even the most able home cook. In an interesting introduction, well-known pastry experts such as Nick Malgieri (Chocolate) and Chris Broberg (pastry chef at Lespinasse) voice their opinions on dessert-related topics and relate their own sometimes difficult learning experiences. The desserts themselves are quite complex, with each recipe consisting of several parts (e.g., to make James Foran's Caramelized Apple Phyllo Crisp, you have to prepare the Crisp, Caramelized Apples, Phyllo Shells, Red Wine-Dried Cherry Sauce, Indian Cinnamon Ice Cream and an Apple Garnish, then assemble the whole). In compensation, these are impressive creations. Pat Coston's Milk Chocolate and Banana Mousse Box with Amaretto Ice Cream and Caramelized Bananas is like a present begging to be opened; John Degnan's Trio of Asian Br l es is daintily presented in individual sake cups. Special equipment is helpfully listed at the start of each recipe. (Mar.)